![]() ![]() Make sure that the hole of the link you want to remove is positioned over a hole in the band holder. Removing the pin can make it easier to work on the watch band links and fit the band into the holder properly. If there are arrows on the inside of the watch band make sure and push the pins out the same direction of the arrows.įeel free to open the watch band if you need more space to work – You can remove the “springbar” pin that is holding the clasp to the end of the band and open the band to get it to fit into the watch band holder. Anytime you are removing more than one link, you should split the total to be removed between both sides of the clasp so the clasp will stay centered on your wrist.Ĭhoose the side you want to start with and set band in the watch band holder to keep it steady. Once you know how many links you need to remove from the band, you need to decide how many links you are removing from each side of the watch band. To learn How to Determine How Many Links to Remove from your watch band, check out this article. When you need to adjust the length of your watch band by removing links, it helps to know exactly how many links you need to remove. You may need a magnifier to see inside the band if the tube does not fall out of the band. How do you know if your watch band uses pin and sleeve pins to keep the links together? Look at the end of the pins (on the side of the watch band) these are usually smooth on both ends and similar to cotter pins -(dont get confused the pin and sleeves pin is NOT tapered so both ends are exactly the same diameter). Use this guide to remove links that are held in place with a pin and sleeve style friction pin. Not a problem if you don’t but I’ve always found it more efficient if you do.If your metal watch band is broken or needs adjustment and is configured with these pin and sleeve connectors, this guide will show you how to easily remove links and ensure a perfect fit. Note – On some Casio bracelets you find the small split collar (collet) on a different part of the link – so when refitting the pin, I find it better to tap it in the same direction that the collar drops into the link. the collar’s gone – and I guarantee you’ll never find it! □ Use too much pressure and you slip – suddenly – ping!. Once you’ve repeated this by removing the link at the end with the same procedure, re-insert the split collar and then mate the two link ends together and re-insert the pin with the arrow, fully – and you’re done.Ī word of advice if you’re using tweezers on the collar, grip it very lightly. Once out gently part the links and you will see the tiny collar in the link centre hole – tip it out on to your table so you don’t lose it when moving the watch and bracelet around. It starts the initial push of the pin in the direction of the arrow – you then use a thin and longer pin pusher to fully push out the link pin (maybe assisted by a pair of pliers). The bracelet resizing is actually quite easy and I usually use a cheap blue plastic bracelet pin pusher thing you can get almost anywhere on Ebay – it does fine. ![]() The images above can be seen more clearly by clicking directly on each one – this should open full size. DO NOT LOSE THIS! Sequence of resizing links on “collet” system bracelet. ![]() Note the tiny split collar (collet) in the top link hole. So in the light of this and my experience with my old Casio Oceanus and now this model, I attach a couple of images to illustrate, which may help those not in the know. For example if you decide to get your local Jeweler to do this – they may very well not be familiar with this system and could very easily lose collars if not forewarned. Some Casio models features the bracelet system I first encountered on the first Casio Oceanus Manta series and featured a solid pin and split collar or collet link fitting.Īlways an issue for folks not used to it, any resizing has to be done with considerable care and I include third parties. ![]()
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